Day 20: Hospital de Orbiga to Murcias de Rechivaldo

The first half of the day was muddy, sloppy and wet. I walked with Chloe, a fellow midwesterner from Lincoln, Nebraska, as the trail turned to a river, and the new road a mud pit. We slipped, slid and sunk, shoes caked and heavy.

But the rain only fell for about an hour (I even saw some blue sky for about 10 minutes), a marked improvement over yesterday.

There is sun in the forecast for Monday; I’ll believe it when I see it.

It’s been nothing but bad luck when it comes to the weather. But I think the head of broccoli I bought a few days ago brought me good food luck. For the last five nights, I have enjoyed healthy veggie filled dinners, and my stomach couldn’t be happier.

The broccoli was was followed by a colorful salad overflowing with peppers, olives, onion, tomato and hearty greens. Then, Chip (the Romanian vegetarian) and I made Spanish pisto filled with zuchini, eggplant, onion, garlic, peppers and tomato.  Last night, was an amazing lentil soup and thai vegetable curry at the cozy and incredibly friendly Albergue Verde in Hospital de Orbiga. (I am forever grateful to the hospitalero in Hontanas who recommended it to me.)

And tonight, another rich vegetable soup and a beautiful vegetarian lasagna.

After weeks of bread, cheese and eggs, I am in heaven.

This poem caught my eye, written in mosaic tile on the front of a church as I walked out of Astorga, today. The author is unknown, but I think it poses interesting questions for the days ahead.

Que el cansancio del camino

nunca te impida pensar.

El lo importante la meta?

No será acaso el encuentro

con el monte, con el rio,

con el rumbo que has perdido …

con el mismo dios quizas…?


The fatigue of the road never impedes you thinking. Is it important, the goal? Will not perhaps the encounter with the mountain, with the river, with the course you have lost … with the same God maybe…?

Today I walked 14.25 miles.

3 thoughts on “Day 20: Hospital de Orbiga to Murcias de Rechivaldo

  1. OMG! That all looked delicious! I bet your stomach (and taste buds) were euphoric! Amazing journey in a million ways. Hang in, girl!


  2. Tasty food (even for a non-vegetarian person like me ) . The moisacs of Sain Peter of Rectivía (Astorga) are made by “Musivaria Antiqua”, the group of parish volunteers who for several years has been engaged to make mosaics to show topics about spirituality of the Camino de Santiago to encourage pilgrims on their way.


  3. I’m so glad that the food has improved. I’m back in Ashland for 9 more days and then on the road home to beautiful downtown Milwaukee. I hope the walking conditions improve soon for you. Keep up the effort. Love you, Dad


Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: Logo

You are commenting using your account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s